Summer Wardrobe Series – one pattern four ways

Tilly and the Buttons Marigolds
Week Two

Blog / 27 June 2018

Thank you so much everyone for all your lovely comments on the series so far! For week two I’m featuring another versatile pattern – The Tilly and the Buttons Marigold trouser and jumpsuit pattern. I’ll be focusing on the trousers variation of the pattern as I think it’s a great separate to add to your wardrobe and is so super comfy to wear!

To see the trousers in action check out my latest Youtube video. If you missed last weeks Ogden cami video, follow this link

Design and style variations

The relaxed peg-shaped trousers are easy-fitting at the hip, with slash pockets for nonchalant slouching, tapering into a slim line ankle. The waist has gentle shaping from front and back darts, cinched in with a quick-sew elasticated waistband.

These trousers are lovely and comfy to wear and having pockets is awesome too, of course!

Fabric choices and notions needed

The pattern recommends a light- to medium-weight drapey fabric, such as viscose (rayon), silk or poly crêpe de chine, or lighter weight chambray. The trousers could also be made in a lightweight low stretch jersey.

For my version I choose the Emerald Forest Viscose that you’ll recognise from the Ogden Cami post – this type of fabric works really well with the looser style over the hips and makes them really comfortable to wear. 

The other notions needed for the trousers are matching thread, iron-on interfacing (for stabilising the pockets) and 2cm elastic. We’ve put everything together in a handy pack that contains enough fabric for any size of the trousers. 

These kits are limited stock so I'm really sorry if you are reading this in the future and they are now sold out. 

Sizing and construction tips

I made the size 3 (UK10) and it fits my waist and hip measurement. I have actually made these trousers a few years ago and I found the crotch rise to be quite high. If I want the crotch to sit in the crotch position it means the waist band is super high (finger points to where my belly button is), but then if I put the waistband at my natural waist point, the crotch was really low.

So for this version I decided to take 2.5” out of the crotch rise using the shorten/lengthen lines on the pattern. I worked this out by pinching out the excess on my first pair, but if you were making them for the first time and wanted to check if you needed to make the same adjustment then I’ll show you how.

Choose your size and then measure the pattern piece from the top to the bottom following the curve of the front crotch rise.

Now measure that distance on your actual body. Just remember to take into account the seam allowance at the crotch and where the waist band will join on. Also remember to consider that the waist band will also add some additional height – probably just over 2cm or about an inch. This should give you a feel for where they will sit and how much depth you might want to take out.

This will still be a bit of trail and error, the more reliable way is of course to make a toile. 

Once you know if and how much you want to take out of the crotch curve, simply cut your pattern at the shorten and lengthen lines on the front and back leg pieces as well as both the pocket pieces and over lap them. I use my inch quilting ruler to make sure its even all the way along.

Style options

If you want go for the faux jumpsuit, combine these trousers with the cute Ogden cami I showed you in week one made from the same print. You can tuck it in and allow the loosness of the ogden to blouse over nicely and be safe in the knowledge that if you need a quick pee you’ve not got a real jumpsuit to contend with!

Or to keep things as obvious separates with a contrast fabric, like the Ogden cami I made using the Atelier Brunette viscose crepe. 

I hope that has given you lots of ideas and perhaps shed some light on a pattern that you might have overlooked before. 

I'm really excited about next weeks post! It might be my favourite one, but these things are always close! I love them all!