November Staff Pattern Review

At Guthrie & Ghani, our love for dressmaking goes beyond the shop floor. Every season, our passionate team takes on a new sewing pattern, choosing fabrics from the store to create something unique, either following the pattern to the letter or adding a personal twist. These projects fuel our creativity and help us guide you with first-hand tips and advice for your sewing projects.

This month’s round-up is particularly special, showcasing the diversity of our team’s inspirations and skill levels. From Vivvy’s stunning hack, inspired by her recent travels to Japan and a love of Scandi minimalism, to Belle’s heartwarming milestone of completing her very first garment with the support of the team—it’s a celebration of creativity, collaboration, and a shared passion for dressmaking.

Join us as we review all the makes, sharing insights, and ideas, and maybe even sparking inspiration for your next project!

Kate's Matchy Matchy Maker's Overshirt

Style and Fabric
The Matchy Matchy Maker’s Overshirt is a boxy, oversized design with simple lines, perfect for layering. It works well with light to medium-weight woven fabrics for shirts or medium-weight fabrics like twill, canvas, or denim for outerwear.

Construction
For my version, I used a Denim Quilted Cotton Blend Reversible Fabric for a classic quilted jacket look. For the facing, I added a pop of colour with Liberty Poppy and Daisy V Tana Lawn Cotton—impossible to resist, especially since it shares a name with my dog!

Challenges and Tips
I made a cropped version of the shirt, using 1.5m of fabric instead of the 2m recommended, plus 20cm of Liberty for the facing. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, and while I sometimes used my own methods, the pattern’s steps worked well.

Fit and Adjustments
The pattern is true to size but oversized. I shortened the bodice by 5 inches for a cropped look and made a toile to adjust the sleeve width, sizing down for a better fit. The finished garment measurements are helpful when selecting a size.

Final Thoughts
This pattern is rated for advanced beginners, which is fair due to details like the facing, button placket, and patch pockets. The finished garment is practical and stylish—I now have two versions that are ideal for everyday wear, especially around the g&g studio.

Lorna's Named Clothing Salla Sweater Dress

Style and Fabric
The Salla Sweater Dress is a relaxed, midi-length knit dress with a chunky turtleneck and raglan sleeves. It’s perfect for medium-weight knit fabrics with 50% stretch and a soft drape. I chose a Burgundy Chunky Knit Fabric (£23/m) for its cosy texture and on-trend colour, ideal for the season.

Construction
I used 2.5m of fabric for size small, matching the pattern’s recommendation. Lengthening the sleeves by 10cm required slightly more fabric, but the instructions were straightforward and easy to follow.

Challenges and Tips
The chunky knit fabric shed a lot, so I used an overlocker for clean edges and clips instead of pins for better grip. Sewing bulky areas, like the side seams over the belt loops, required slowing down and using the handwheel. I avoided pressing the seams as it flattened the fabric too much.

Fit and Adjustments
The fit is true to size with room for layering. I lengthened the sleeves for a full-length look and would consider adding cuffs next time to complement the turtleneck.

Final Thoughts
This dress is warm, cosy, and versatile—perfect for both lounging and casual outings. Styled with tights and boots, it’s ideal for the pub or even Christmas Day, with the belt undone for extra comfort.

Gemma Friday Pattern Company Pogonip Pullover

Style and Fabric
The Pogonip Pullover is a loose-fitting pullover perfect for layering with a quarter button-down placket. It works well with both woven and stable knit fabrics such as French terry, sweatshirting, velour, corduroy, or pre-quilted fabrics. I chose the Ecru Animal Boucle fabric to embrace the leopard print trend with a subtle twist.

Construction
I used 1.3m of fabric, matching the pattern’s recommendation. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. While the pattern is rated intermediate due to the welt pockets, omitting them made it simple and beginner-friendly.

Challenges and Tips
The fluffy fabric made seam allowances tricky to manage. Trimming the fluff from the seam allowances helped keep construction neat. When sewing the placket, double-check alignment—it’s crucial to get it right!

Fit and Adjustments
The fit was true to size. I shortened the sleeves by 1.25” and skipped the welt pockets for simplicity. For a more fitted look with stretch fabric, sizing down could work well.

Final Thoughts
This pullover is incredibly cosy and versatile. Despite my placket mishap, I’m happy with the finished garment and would definitely make it again.

Jo Matchy Matchy Archer Pants

Style and Fabric
The Archer Work Pants are easy-fit, barrel-leg trousers suitable for a range of fabrics, from lightweight linens to medium-weight denim and twill. I chose ramie for its versatile, textured quality, making it ideal for all seasons.

Construction
I used 1.9m of fabric, less than the 2.4m recommended, by cutting the gusset across the grain instead of along the selvedge. The instructions and illustrations were clear, and Matchy Matchy’s handy labels for marking fabric pieces ensured no mistakes, even with fabrics without a clear right or wrong side.

Challenges and Tips
This pattern is beginner-friendly, with lots of topstitching for practice. Be sure to check the finished measurements to achieve your desired fit, as the pants have significant ease. Focus on the hip measurement, as the elasticated waist allows adjustment.

Fit and Adjustments
I cut an XL based on my waist, resulting in a loose, baggy fit that I like. I made a few adjustments: removing 1" from the rise and 1" from the top leg to raise the knee dart.

Final Thoughts
This is a great pattern for beginners exploring trouser-making or experienced sewists seeking a quick, satisfying project. It’s perfect for busy times, taking only 3 hours to complete. The finished trousers are comfortable and versatile.

Becca's Thread Theory Qualicum Bag

Style and Fabric
The Qualicum Bag is a handsomely proportioned tote. Suitable fabrics include canvas, twill, heavy linen, ramie, cord, denim, and jacquard. I chose Sage Cotton Twill for the main body and Fibre Mood Layered Block Cotton Poplin for the lining. I skipped the contrast panel for a cohesive look and used webbing for straps.

Construction
I used 90cm for the main fabric and 1m for the lining, slightly less than recommended due to careful planning and cutting. To streamline the process, I recommend using a rotary cutter and clips. Webbing straps are a great alternative to making fabric straps.

Adjustments
The pieces fit together well. I made a few tweaks: enlarging the bottle pockets and adding elastic, lengthening the internal facing to keep the lining below the bag’s top edge, and widening the topstitching for a secure finish.

Final Thoughts
Review the variation pictures and the table of pieces carefully at the start of the pattern. It’s worth taking time to decide on your preferred design elements.

Alison's Closet Core Mile End Sweater

Style and Fabric
The Mile End Sweater is a slouchy, oversized sweatshirt with a modern, graphic look. View B features a gathered front band at the waist with a fabric tie. I used the Atelier Brunette Leony Sweatshirting in Midnight, a thick knit perfect for this design.

Construction
The pattern suggests 1.85m of fabric for my size, but I comfortably used 1.5m. The construction was simple with some interesting design details, making the instructions easy to follow. To speed up the process, I recommend having both a sewing machine and an overlocker ready to use interchangeably.

Fit and Adjustments
I mistakenly made a size 16 based on my full bust measurement, but I should have made a size 14. That said, I like the oversized fit. There’s plenty of ease in this design, so if you are going to make this, I recommend you pay close attention to the bust and waist measurements. I didn’t make any other adjustments but would consider lengthening it a couple of inches next time, as it’s a little too cropped for my liking.

Challenges and Tips
The only challenge was that the underarm seam and side seam didn’t quite match up due to the style of this sweater, so pay close attention to the notches in that area!

Final Thoughts
I love this sweater! It’s comfortable, stylish, and easy to make. A great option for anyone wanting a quick and cosy sew.

Vivvy's Merchant and Mills Sanda Jacket ✨hack✨

Style and Fabric
The Sanda Jacket is a simple, unstructured jacket or coat with a shawl collar. It can be lined and features pockets. I chose Dove Boucle Wool Blend, a beautiful fabric that fits the minimal, Japanese-inspired style I envisioned.

Fabric and Usage
The pattern recommends 2.1m for a self-jacket in 150cm wide fabric, but I used just 2m due to opting for ¾ sleeves. If I’d followed the full sleeve option, I could have used 1.8m instead.

Construction
The instructions were mostly clear, though Merchant & Mills patterns can sometimes feel too technical or under-explained. For this make, I followed the instructions step by step and had no issues. The construction process was straightforward, with helpful illustrations.

Challenges and Tips
The project went smoothly, with no real difficulties. My advice for smoother construction is to use a good pair of shears for clean cuts, especially when working with wool blends. Press every seam carefully as you go, as pressing is key to a neat finish. Take your time—this is an investment piece!

Fit and Adjustments
The pattern runs quite oversized, and I opted to size down. The jacket remains roomy, but that’s the intended look. I’d suggest customers consider the oversized nature when selecting their size to avoid it feeling too bulky.

Final Thoughts
I love the finished garment and have already cut out another in black boiled wool. The simplicity and style of the jacket are exactly what I wanted. I would recommend this pattern for anyone looking for an elegant, minimal jacket with a modern touch.

Additional Comments
Well, I just love Merchant & Mills patterns!!!! I am trying other pattern companies slowly. Just Merchant & Mills love their style, hacks and blogs to accompany their patterns. Sometimes they are challenging you just need extra coffee and cake/chocolates to get you through!

Happy Creating Garments for the future – Beauty in Purpose (there is always a purpose to make garments you want to wear and love, especially when we put so much effort, swear and sometimes tears!

Vicki's Assembly Line Lab Coat

Style and Fabric
The Assembly Line Lab Coat is a lightweight, longline jacket or coat. I chose a Khaki Swirl stretch cotton twill for its lovely print and suitability for the garment's style.

Fabric and Usage
The pattern recommends 2.8m of fabric, but I opted for 3m just to be safe.

Construction
The instructions were clear in some parts but confusing in others, especially with the placket construction. I needed help to understand the wording, which caused a delay. The illustrations were much easier to follow.

Challenges and Tips
The placket was the trickiest part for me. To make construction easier, I recommend having a sewing buddy (like Vivvy or Jo) on hand for interpretation when it comes to tricky sections like the placket.

Fit and Adjustments
I made a medium, but it came out a bit big. If I were to make it again, I’d likely size down.

Final Thoughts
Overall, I’m pleased with the finished garment, though there are areas I would finish slightly differently. The process took about a day, but I’m inspired to try something else next!

Additional Comments
This pattern has sparked my interest to tackle another project.

Rosie's Closet Core Rika Pants

Style and Fabric
The Rika Pants have a utilitarian and casual style that can feel like workwear when made in the right fabric. I chose black sanded twill because it’s perfect for cargo pants and provides the right structure.

Fabric and Usage
I used 2.3m of fabric, which matches the pattern’s recommended amount.

Construction
The instructions were easy to follow overall. However, the pocket placement was a bit unclear, and I had to unpick them after they were too high. The zip fly was a bit different from my usual method, and I may try a different technique next time. Wonder tape is really useful for visualising the zip fly before stitching.

Fit and Adjustments
I made a few adjustments: I increased the rise by 1 inch for a higher waist and added 3 inches to the hem. However, I ended up removing some of the extra length, so shorter sewists may need to shorten the hem. The waistband and pockets felt a bit stiff, so I would consider lining the fabric with something lighter next time. However, I expect the fabric to soften with wear. Overall, I’m happy with the finished garment.

Additional Comments
I would recommend making a toile or using a bigger seam allowance to ensure the right fit.

Hannah's Named Clothing Loviisa Denim Dress ✨hack✨

Fabric and Adjustments
I made the Named Clothing Loviisa Dress using Dark Blue 11.7oz Rigid Cotton Denim, and it worked really well for the pattern. The suggested fabrics include denim, corduroy, and cotton twill. Instead of sewing the full dress, I decided to turn it into a top since I don’t wear dresses that often, but I loved the details, especially the collar so I knew I wanted to make this! For the top, I only needed about 1.3m of fabric.

I went with a size 10, sizing up from my measurements. It’s not overly oversized, but my usual size might have felt a bit tight, especially with such a thick fabric. I also added 1.5 inches to the sleeves because I prefer a slightly longer fit.

Construction
The instructions and illustrations were super clear, which made things straightforward. The pattern is marked as Intermediate, and I think that’s fair because the placket and cuffs can be a bit fiddly. But honestly, it all came together without any real issues, and the process was pretty smooth.

Fit and Advice
If you’re using thicker fabrics like denim, I’d recommend sizing up, especially if you don’t want a snug fit.

I’m really happy with how it turned out! I love the design and can already see myself making another one in needlecord. It took me about 5 hours from cutting out to sewing on the buttons—so not too bad for such a lovely project!

Belle's first dressmaking project! yay!

Style and Fabric
The Indigo Dress is a boxy, oversized day dress suitable for all seasons. I chose an olive gingham seersucker fabric because I feel I'll get a lot of wear out of it, especially with the style of this garment and it is a beginner friendly fabric to work with!

Fabric and Usage
For my size 8 Indigo dress (UK 20), the pattern recommended 2.5-3m, and I bought 3m, with about 1m left over.

Construction
As a beginner, I found the instructions a bit difficult to follow due to the condensed paragraphs. However, with help from Gemma one of our tutors here at G&G, who broke down each step helped make the process make sense. The accompanying videos were really helpful and as a visual learn benefitted me more and I’d recommend watching them before starting each step. The instructions are generally beginner-friendly thought and the photos are clear and concise - especially when you have the jargon buster with the pattern. These are great.

Fit and Adjustments
The fit was true to size, and I didn’t make any adjustments. The pattern has a boxy fit, but it’s not overly loose. If you prefer a more fitted waist, you could size down.

Final Thoughts
I’m really happy with the finished garment and I am already planning on making another one. If I were to change anything, I might choose a fabric with a more distinct right and wrong side to make construction easier as a beginner dressmaker.

My advice for anyone tackling their first dressmaking project
For beginners, I highly recommend setting a kind timeline for yourself to complete your project as an end goal kept me motivated. Take your time with each step so you can be accurate and understand the process, this built my confidence. I loved sewing in a social setting, the morale and practical help from fellow dressmakers meant that this journey was shared, and I felt supported. Don't forget to snip your notches and use a magnetic seam guide if you tend to get distracted like I do.