As you know, the g&g team and I love to sew and make our own clothes all the time. Every so often we all review one of the lovely indie patterns we stock in the shop to compare notes and learn more about the pattern, which we can then pass onto our lovely customers.
This month we all decided to make one of the newer patterns from Closet Core - the Cielo top and dress. We all made the top version but as you'll see each make looks really different and it's a great way to see how a pattern sews up in different fabrics and on different body shapes.
Size range - US 0-20, bust size 31" - 46". This pattern also comes with a C and D cup option, which is like a built in full bust adjustment. The cup sizes aren't necessarily based on what bra size you buy/wear, it's calculated by the difference between your full bust and high bust measurement. The pattern explains how to work this out and they you can download a pdf version
Style The Cielo is a lovely boxy tee, or shift dress with lots of options for customisation. Choose between a cuffed short sleeve or a dramatic long gathered sleeve. Pop some pockets in the shift dress and pick between a facing or bias finished on the neckline.
Suitable fabrics It all depends on what look you want to go for really. For a more structured shape, use a light to medium weight woven fabric like linen, chambray or cotton shirting. Or for a a drapier look go for rayon/viscose, tencel, cotton voile or silk.
Difficulty level I would say a confident beginner could go for this pattern, but perhaps pick a more structured fabric like cotton lawn or linen if thats the case. The instructions are really in-depth and clear and Closet Core even have a learn to sew online course that features the pattern.
Alex used our khaki leopard viscose fabric with the lovely gathered sleeve, which works perfectly for this style. She made a size 6 and graded out 2 sizes at the hips. She also added 3" to the length and prefers to tuck it into trousers or a skirt. On this inside she french seamed as the fabric was so light weight and used a facing at the neckline.
That particular viscose is out of stock now but we have loads of other lovely similar fabrics in the viscose section of the shop - tap here to check them out.
Jo used some lovely Atelier Brunette cotton lawn to make her version and decided to lengthen the sleeves, using the short sleeve pattern piece as a base and flare them out a bit. She sized down to the size 8, normally she makes a size 10 in Closet Core, and graded out by about 1" at the hips as well as adding 4" to the length. She used the facing finish for the neck and found that she had to take some excess out of the neckline at the seam between the back yoke and back bodice and feels that the angle of the shoulder seam is still quite high. For another version in a fabric like this she said she would correct that by trying it on before attaching the facing.
Lesley used some of our black and white brushed cotton fabric to make the gathered sleeve version. Despite it being 100% cotton, this fabric is really soft and does have a nice amount of drape so the gathered sleeve still hangs nicely. She made a size 4, which is her regular size for Closet Core Patterns and added 2.5" to the length. She used a facing on the neckline too.
Meg used our Atelier Brunette Dune viscose crepe fabric to make her short sleeved version. She made the size 0 and added 1" to the hem as well as doing French seams on the inside, even for the sleeves, which are set in flat. She opted for a bias finish at the neckline but felt the pattern piece for the bias strip was quite narrow so it would be easier, especially for those new to bias binding to use some ready made bias (we've got a lovely selection of cotton lawn, viscose and double gauze ones from Atelier Brunette).
For my version I used the Atelier Brunette moonstone viscose fabric and went for the short sleeve option with the facing. I French seamed mine too (but not the sleeve) and I didn't add any length. I knew I would be wearing it during my pregnancy with a top underneath anyway so I didn't mind that it was going to be pretty cropped. I made a size 6, which is my regular size in Closet Core. For me I feel like the neckline is quite wide and the top does move around a lot when made in a viscose so it gives a more slouchy casual feel. I've got lots of wear out of it so far!
We try out the fabrics and patterns ourselves so we can give you the best advice.
from Christmas Parties to hosting at home to the team are here with some me-made Christmas Inspiration