Staff Pattern Review

Summer 2022

The very talented team here at g&g have been busy again sewing up a gorgeous selection of garments using the patterns and fabrics we have in the shop! We all really do love sewing and dressmaking as much as our lovely customers and what better way to be able to advise, inspire and share our knowledge with you than to test out projects for ourselves!

If you are inspired to try any of the projects and see the corresponding patterns and fabric out of stock, do drop us an email [email protected] and we can let you know once they are back. We get deliveries all the time and always have more stock on order so things can go in and out of stock quite quickly sometimes depending on demand.

Helen's Shelby Dress

Helen has made a beautiful version of the True Bias Shelby Dress using the Fabric Godmother Rita Viscose crepe. This fit and flare style has a flattering v-neckline with princess seams and can be made in different lengths, as well as a romper version.

Helen made a size 10 and suggests checking the finished garment measurements and being guided more by the bust measurement as there is a lot of ease at the waist.

She found the crepe fabric a bit tricky as it can stretch out, especially around the facing/button section at the front. She used Prym forming tape interfacing around the neckline in place of stay stitching, and next time she plans to use knit interfacing on a fabric like this, as it's really good for stabilising the fabric whilst still allowing for optimum drape and movement.

She did a lovely lace back hack of the pattern using the instructions on the True Bias blog. Little loops are inserted into the side back seams and then a long tie, used to make a cross over detail. I think it looks great and also allows for customisation of how much the waist synchs in.

Her top tip is to label the dress pattern pieces as due to the number of sections it could be easy to get them mixed up when it comes to sewing together.

Jo's Remy Raglan Top

Jo has made a lovely version if the Sew House Seven Remy Raglan top. This is a really great, simple top with various options to customise it so great for confident beginners. Jo picked the teal viscose linen fabric (which also comes in lots of other colours!) and it pairs perfectly as it's nice and drapy which compliments the oversized style.

She made a size 8 grading to a 10 but feels she probably could have gone down to a size 6 for a closer fit.

The changes she made were to take 1.5" off the sleeve and take the cuffs in by 4cm. She also squared off the hem.

Her top tips is to get ready made bias binding as the fabric was fraying and it made the neckline binding a bit more fiddly.

Charlie's Skye Dress

Charlie has made a super cute version of the Tilly and the Buttons Skye Dress using the Maple colourway of the Atelier Brunette Gingham Gauze. This style is more fitted over the bust and then has a lovely loose and breezy fit under the bust.

She made a size 10 and found the instructions easy to follow. It was her first time using bias binding and next time she would use a narrower pre-made one (she used 25mm wide here but had to trim it down a bit).

The addition of the faux knot tie at the top of the straps is a lovely detail and great that you can have two looks with this and take it off if you fancied!

Hannah J's Eloisa Top

Hannah picked the Elosia pattern from the Named Clothing: Building the Pattern Book and used the Pacific Blue Basics Cotton Jersey to make her version of this really versatile pattern. As the name of the book suggests, you really can build your own pattern here and choose to make a sweater, t-shirt (like Hannah), a tunic or a dress with a circle skirt. She shortened the sleeve on the sweater version of the pattern to get this t-shirt style.

She found the instructions fairly easy to follow but as there are lots of variants of pattern pieces for this pattern, you need to really pay attention to what ones you need for the version you are making when you trace the pattern from the sheets in the book.

The fit is oversized and boxy so she suggests, depending on your preference you may want to size down.

Hannah found that there was lots of notches on the pattern pieces that really helps when sewing the curved seam detail on the front bodice and she used the sewing machine (rather than the overlocker) for this seam and used lots of pins, but found it came together well.

Lesley's Matcha Top

Lesley has made a stunning version of the Sew Liberated Matcha Top using the Fabric Godmother Melissa Viscose twill fabric. This swingy, easy to sew top has a statement gatehred neckband with a sleeves and sleevless option. It's a loose fit around the waist and hips and choosing a size is based on your shoulder measurement - no other fitting required.

She found it easy to follow as there are very few pattern pieces, but recommends watching out for the instruction to cut the sleeve on the fold as it should say cut 2.

She had originally planned to omit the front centre seam but due to the simple construction and no facing piece, she decided to pattern match and I'm sure you'll agree it's spot on! Can barely tell there is a seam there!

She found the the neckline does look pretty odd until it's gathered into the collar, so just trust the instructions and try to make sure most of the gathering is at the front of the neck.

Alison's Cashmerette Calder Pants

Alison has made a super comfy and stylish version of the Cashmerette Calder Pants using Turquoise Viscose Linen fabric. They are a super relaxed trouser with wide legs.

She found them easy to sew together and only got a bit stuck as the instructions didn't explain the need for a pocket facing and there is a need to watch out for matching up right/wrong sides when making the pocket if you are using a fancy patterned pocket lining. As she was using the same as the main fabric it didn't matter, as there is not right or wrong side of the viscose linen fabric. The photographs on the Cashmerette sew along for the Calder pants will really help if you are getting stuck at this stage.

She found the fit good and made adjustments to make 2" from the rise and 2" from the length after making a toile. There is a more information on the Casherette website on choosing a size and you can pick from an apple or pear fit with this pattern - this is also a tutorial on making it in a knit fabric!

Hannah F's Zadie Jumpsuit

Hannah has made a striking version of the Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit using our Ruby Red Sorona Viscose Linen fabric. This popular wrap around style is great for advanced beginners and was the first jumpsuit style Hannah had made. She found it really easy to follow the instructions and sew it together. The binding is the most time consuming part and she recommended spending lots of time pinning before sewing on the machine.

She found the sizing came up bigger than she was expecting and for her next version she plans to size down, and reduce the length of the crotch. She also altered the jumpsuit to the cropped trouser style which she is happier with.

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