How to Add a Fold Over Button Band to a Top Pattern | Easy Sewing Pattern Hack Tutorial

Jun 10, 2026

Learn how to hack a simple top sewing pattern to add a fold over button band with this step-by-step tutorial using the Closet Core Azure Top. A simple sewing pattern hack that works beautifully on shell tops and tank styles.

There’s something so satisfying about finding simple ways to customise sewing patterns and create different looks from styles you already love. In this tutorial, I’m sharing how to hack a simple top pattern to add a fold over style button band — a lovely detail that can completely change the look of a garment while only requiring a few simple pattern adjustments.

For this example, I’ve used the Closet Core Azure Top pattern, which is designed with the front bodice cut on the fold. However, the same technique could easily be applied to lots of similar top patterns including styles like the Anna Allen Demeter Top, Helen’s Closet Ashton Top and other simple shell or tank style patterns. The same principles can also be used on a back bodice if you’d prefer a button detail at the back instead.

Find out how easy this is in my latest Youtube video.

Scroll on for a step-by-step tutorial, where I’ll walk you through how to adapt the pattern piece, create the fold over extension and finish off the neckline neatly with bias binding so you can confidently try this hack on your own sewing projects.

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Closet Core Azure Dress And Top Sewing Pattern

£20.00

Fabric Godmother Butter Yellow Palm Tree Cotton Broderie Anglaise Fabric

£21.00 /m

Fabric Godmother Butter Yellow Palma Cotton Lawn Fabric

£10.00 /m

How to adapt the paper pattern

Once you have chosen your top pattern, picked your size and made any other adjustments needed — for example bust dart placement, length or neckline shape/depth — it’s time to make the pattern adjustment on paper.

This method is specifically for creating a folded-over button band, rather than a separate button band that gets sewn onto the front bodice as an additional piece.

Creating the button band in this way is much simpler, as both the left and right bodices can be cut and sewn in exactly the same way. It also makes it much easier to match prints or patterns smoothly across the button band.

1. Trace the base pattern

Here I’m using Patterntrace Swedish Tracing Paper to trace the original pattern piece exactly as it is, so that I can clearly identify the centre front line - its the line that will likely be marked as 'cut on the fold' on your pattern.

This line will be the starting point for making the adaptation and will become the point where the two sides of the bodice overlap to create the fold over button band.

2. Decide the width of the button band

The centre front line needs to sit in the middle of your finished button band, so once you’ve decided how wide you’d like it to be, draw that extension onto the pattern piece with the centre front line running through the middle.

I made mine 2.5cm wide, but you could make it slightly wider depending on the style of garment and the size you are sewing. It can be helpful to measure the button bands on existing handmade or ready-to-wear garments that you already like as a point of comparison.

3. Draw in the Back Facing and Seam Allowance

Lastly, you’ll need to add extra width to create the back section of the button band along with the seam allowance.

Draw another parallel line the same width as your button band — for me, this was another 2.5cm. Then add your seam allowance beyond that. I added a 1cm seam allowance.

How to Sew the Button Band

In this example, I’m using the flat lining method to line the garment. You can find my dedicated blog post and video tutorial showing exactly how to do this linked below.

I’ve also pattern matched the fabric design across the button band to help create a more seamless finish. You can check out how I used Patterntrace Swedish Tracing Paper to help with pattern matching in the separate blog post linked below.

Apply interfacing and press in place

Following the lines you drew onto the pattern, press back the seam allowance and back section of the button band to the wrong side of the fabric. In my case, this was first 1cm, followed by 2.5cm.

Apply a strip of iron-on interfacing the same width as your finished button band to the section that will become the outermost visible part of the button band. In my case, this measured 3.5cm in from the raw edge at the centre front.

2. Fold and sew in place

Fold the button band into place so that it fully covers the interfacing, then press well. Top stitch close to the inner folded edge of the button band to hold everything neatly in place. I find this easier to sew from the inside of the garment, as it helps you keep the stitching line nice and even along the folded edge.

You could also optionally add a second decorative line of top stitching along the outermost folded edge of the button band. This works especially well on plain fabrics, where the extra stitching detail can become more of a design feature.

How to sew on the bias binding

1. Sew the binding to the neckline

Using bias binding cut to your preferred width, press it in half lengthways with the wrong sides facing. I used XX width.

Line up the raw edges of the folded binding with the raw edge of the neckline and sew it in place using a 0.5cm seam allowance, leaving approximately 3–4cm extra at both the start and end.

2. Understitch the binding

Press the binding up and away from the bodice, then understitch close to the seam line. Sew through the binding and all of the seam allowances underneath to help the binding roll neatly to the inside of the garment.

It can help to extend the understitching slightly past the centre front edge — even a little further than shown in the image — as this helps the binding sit flatter and behave more neatly once the ends are folded under and finished.

3. Trim and tuck under the raw edge of the binding

Trim the excess binding down to around 1cm wide, or slightly more depending on how much your fabric frays.

Then fold and press this raw edge to the inside of the garment, as shown in the image, so that the end of the binding is neatly enclosed before the final stitching step.

4. Fold and press the binding to the inside of the garment

Fold the binding to the inside of the garment. The understitching will really help it roll neatly to the inside and keep the binding sitting flat around the neckline. Make sure the raw edge stays tucked under as you press and pin it into place.

If you find the raw edge difficult to control or keep neatly tucked in, you could use a slip stitch or invisible ladder stitch by hand between the binding and button band to hold everything in place before top stitching.

5. Top stitch the binding in place

Top stitch the binding down close to the lower folded edge of the binding, keeping the stitching line as neat and even as possible around the neckline. This stitching will be prominently visible on the finished garment, so it’s worth taking your time and sewing carefully for a tidy finish.

Sew the button holes and buttons on

Now that the button band has been sewn, you can work out the best positioning for your buttonholes. A good starting point is to place one button at the fullest part of the bust to help prevent the garment pulling open when worn.

From there, depending on how high or low your neckline is, you can decide how many buttons you would like above that point. Once those positions are established, you can use the spacing between them to evenly distribute the remaining buttonholes down the rest of the button band.