5 Simple Changes I Made to My Tilly and the Buttons Leah Top

Jul 28, 2026

One of the things I love most about dressmaking is that you don't have to follow a pattern exactly as written. Once you've made a few garments, you'll start to notice little opportunities to adapt the construction or finishing techniques to better suit your fabric, your sewing preferences or simply the finish you'd like to achieve.

These aren't major pattern hacks that change the design. Instead, they're small adjustments that can make sewing a pattern even more enjoyable and help you achieve a finish you're really proud of.

For my latest Tilly and the Buttons Leah Top, I chose our beautiful Blueberry Bunches Double Gauze. Double gauze fabrics can vary quite a bit in weight, and this particular one has a little more structure than some. I love the way it gives the peplum lovely shape and fullness, but because it is slightly heavier, I made a few simple adaptations to reduce bulk and help the garment sit beautifully.

Whether you're sewing the Leah Top in double gauze, linen, cotton or another woven fabric, these ideas might inspire you to think about how you can adapt a pattern to work best for your own project.

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Remember, sewing patterns are a starting point, not a set of rules. As your confidence grows, making little adjustments like these becomes second nature and is one of the most rewarding parts of creating clothes that are truly your own.

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Recreate this look by adding what you need to your basket, to create your own Blueberry Bunches Leah Top!

Read on for the five simple changes I made to my Leah!

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Lauren's Leah Top in Blueberry Bunches Embroidered Double Gauze

1. I Used a Lighter Weight Double Gauze for the Binding

One of the biggest changes I made was swapping the neckline and armhole binding.

The Leah Top can be finished with bias binding cut from your main fabric, but because my Blueberry Bunches Double Gauze is a little thicker, I wanted to avoid unnecessary bulk around the neckline and armholes.

Instead, I used our Cream Wide Double Gauze Bias Binding, which coordinates beautifully with the Blueberry fabric while creating a much lighter finish.

Because the ready-made binding is wider than the pattern requires, I gently pressed it open before using the pattern pieces to cut my binding strips to the correct width.

Top tip: When pressing the double gauze binding open, avoid dragging the iron along the fabric as this can stretch the bias. Instead, use an up-and-down pressing motion with plenty of steam to keep everything beautifully shaped.

Once cut, simply attach the binding following the Leah pattern instructions.

2. I Swapped the Fabric Loop for a Thread Chain Loop

The back neckline is normally finished with a fabric button loop.

With a thicker double gauze, I felt this would become quite bulky, so I opted for a delicate thread chain loop instead.

It's a tiny detail, but one that gives the finished top an elegant look while reducing bulk around the neckline.

How to Make a Thread Chain Button Loop

A thread chain loop is a lovely alternative to a fabric button loop, especially when your main fabric is too bulky to create a narrow loop. It looks delicate and decorative, but is surprisingly simple to create by hand.

Step 1

Thread a hand-sewing needle with a long, doubled length of thread and knot the ends together.

Choose a thread that coordinates with your fabric. You will need more thread than you might expect, as the looping process gradually shortens it.

Step 2

Bring the needle through the fabric from the wrong side to the right side at the point where you want the button loop to begin.

Secure the thread with a small backstitch, leaving a loop of thread on the surface of the fabric.

Step 3

Put the needle down and hold the open thread loop with the fingers of one hand.

Keep the remaining length of thread, with the needle still attached, to the side.

Step 4

Reach through the open loop and pull a small section of the working thread through it.

Do not pull the whole length of thread through. You only need to draw through enough to create a new loop.

Step 5

Release the original loop and gently pull the new loop until the first one closes into a small knot at the base of the chain.

Try to keep the tension even so that each link is a similar size.

Step 6

Continue pulling a new loop of thread through the previous one, then tighten the old loop to form the next link in the chain.

Repeat this process until the chain is long enough to fit comfortably over your button.

Step 7

When the chain is the correct length, pass the needle through the final loop and pull the thread all the way through.

This closes the last link and prevents the chain from unravelling.

Step 8

Take the needle back through the fabric where you want the other end of the button loop to sit.

Secure the thread firmly on the wrong side with a few small stitches and a knot, then trim away the excess thread.

Top tip:

Check the length of the chain around your button before securing the second end. The loop should be large enough to pass over the button without pulling, but not so loose that it slips off while the garment is being worn.

3. I Chose a Deeper Single-Turn Hem

The pattern suggests a traditional double-fold hem, turning the fabric under twice before stitching.

Because my fabric already had plenty of body, I decided to reduce the layers by using a single-turn 1.5cm hem instead.

Before folding the hem, I overlocked the raw edge without trimming any fabric away. Then I simply pressed the hem up once and topstitched it into place.

If you don't have an overlocker, an overcasting stitch or zigzag stitch works just as well to give a neat finish.

This small adjustment creates a flatter hem while still looking beautifully finished.

4. I Topstitched the Peplum Seam

Heavier fabrics don't always respond to pressing alone.

Even after a good press, seams can sometimes want to roll or flip upwards because of the extra body in the fabric.

To help the peplum sit beautifully flat, I topstitched the seam allowance down after attaching it.

Working from the right side, I stitched close to the seam line, catching the seam allowance underneath.

Not only does this help keep everything lying flat, but it also adds a subtle design detail that complements the style of the top.

The Blueberry Bunches Double Gauze gives the peplum wonderful shape while still feeling soft and comfortable to wear. These five small adjustments helped reduce bulk and created the neat finish I was hoping for without changing the overall design of the pattern.

5. I Made Faux Side Bows

This was probably my favourite modification.

I absolutely love the look of the side bows on the Leah Top, but I didn't want to worry about them coming undone during the day.

Instead, I created faux bows that are permanently stitched in place.

Rather than making eight ties as instructed, I cut just four extra-long ties. After sewing them, I hand-tied each bow, stitched it securely into shape and neatly finished the ends.

Once complete, I hand-sewed the finished bows over each side seam.

The result is exactly the same beautiful look, but with bows that never need retying and always stay perfectly in place.

My Finished Leah Top

I couldn't be happier with how this version turned out.

One of the things I love most about dressmaking is that every project teaches you something new. Often it's these little tweaks that make a handmade garment feel even more personal and enjoyable to wear.

If you're planning to sew the Tilly and the Buttons Leah Top, I hope these ideas give you the confidence to adapt the pattern to suit your fabric and sewing style.

You can shop this Blueberry Leah Top Project here, adding what you need here:

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