How to widen the straps and add a gathered peplum to the True Bias Ogden Cami
Lauren’s hints and tips for customising this popular summery pattern
The True Bias Ogden Cami is one of those patterns I come back to year after year. It's a real wardrobe staple for me and one I've sewn in so many different fabrics over the years. In fact, I once packed enough Ogden Camis for a holiday that I wore a different one every single day!
I think that's the sign of a really great sewing pattern. Rather than making it exactly the same every time, I love finding little ways to adapt it so it keeps earning its place in my wardrobe.
For this version, I wanted to make the straps a little wider and add a softly gathered peplum. They're both simple changes, but they completely transform the look of the top while keeping everything I already love about the original pattern.
One of the questions I'm asked most often about the Ogden Cami is, "What bra do you wear with it?" Personally, I don't mind if my bra straps peek out a little, but I know that's something that has put some people off sewing this pattern. If that's you, don't worry. Widening the straps is a really straightforward alteration and makes the top much more bra friendly without losing its lovely delicate feel.
I also couldn't resist sewing this version in one of our beautiful Atelier Brunette viscose fabrics. The soft drape makes it perfect for gathers, so adding the peplum felt like the ideal finishing touch.
I hope this tutorial inspires you to look at your favourite patterns a little differently. Don't be afraid to make small changes to suit your style, your wardrobe and the way you want to wear your handmade clothes. Often it's those personal touches that turn a pattern you like into one you reach for on repeat.
Watch my YouTube tutorial where i walk you through my adaptations, or keep scrolling to see exactly how I adapted the True Bias Ogden Cami.
Details of the adaptions I made:
For widening the straps
- I used the same strap pattern piece that comes as standard with the pattern but instead, I cut out two for each strap and stitched them together along the long edges.
- You could make it wider that that if you wanted to though, the strap is just a rectangle so its easy to just change the dimensions of it
For adding the peplum
- I made the size 4. I tried on an original version of the pattern and measured down from under the arm to where I wanted the peplum to start at my natural waist line. You could choose any level you wanted it to start though.
- For me this measurement was 23cm. I then added an additional 1cm for seam allowance under that.
- Follow the curve of the hem line as you mark this is. It's easier to measure up from the bottom once you know the location of the line from the side seam.
- To get the height dimension of the peplum I measured from the new seam line that I drew on to the bottom hem line. I then added 1cm for seam allowance. For me this measurement was 17cm.
- To get the width dimension of the peplum, I measured the length of the new seam line that I drew in. For me this was 26cm. I then doubled this measurement and cut out that rectangle of 17cm x 26cm on the fold.
- Cut out one rectangle for the front and one for the back.
- You could make the peplum more or less gathered by adjusting the width of the peplum.
Shop the Pattern
The True Bias Ogden Cami is a timeless wardrobe staple that's just as enjoyable to sew as it is to wear. With its relaxed fit, delicate shaping and endless hackability, it's the perfect pattern for experimenting with simple design changes like these. Whether you're making your very first Ogden or adding another to your handmade wardrobe, it's a pattern you'll find yourself reaching for again and again.
I hope this has given you the confidence to experiment with one of your favourite patterns. Some of the best additions to a handmade wardrobe come from making small changes that suit the way you like to dress. Whether you widen the straps, add a peplum or use these ideas as a starting point for your own version, I'd love to see what you make. If you give these adaptations a try, don't forget to tag us on social media so we can admire your finished Ogden Cami!
