Jacket Sewing Patterns: My Handmade Coat & Jacket Collection

These are the jackets I reach for when I want an extra layer without necessarily needing a full winter coat. Cotton twill, denim, Tencel twill and other medium-weight woven fabrics work brilliantly for this type of jacket and make them really useful through spring, cooler summer days and into autumn.

Grainline Studio Thayer Jacket

I actually have two Thayer Jackets, one navy and one burgundy. Both are made in a sanded water-repellent cotton twill and lined in a cotton check, with a contrasting teddy fleece collar.

The navy version in particular has had loads of wear. I love more unusual pocket construction and I customised the collar by adding a teddy fleece- it's a really useful everyday jacket.

Sew Over It Sorrento Jacket

My Sorrento is made in a classic denim, which feels like the natural choice for this style of jacket. It's one of those timeless garments that works with so many things in your wardrobe.

We still stock similar classic denim fabrics at Guthrie & Ghani, so this is a great pattern to consider if you fancy making your own denim jacket.

Friday Pattern Company Ilford Jacket

I've made two Ilford Jackets using Sevenberry cotton twill in different colours.

This is one of the patterns I'd suggest if you're newer to jacket making. It's a relatively straightforward sew and works brilliantly in a stable cotton twill. We still stock the Sevenberry twill I used for mine too.

Closet Core Kelly Anorak

You'll actually see two very different Kelly Anoraks in this round-up.

This first version is made from Sevenberry cotton twill and I've used Liberty Tana Lawn to add some lovely details inside, including the lined hood, hem finishing and drawstring casing.

I really love adding special details like this to handmade jackets. They might not always be obvious when you're wearing the garment, but they're one of the things that makes sewing your own outerwear so satisfying.

Wardrobe By Me Amelia Bomber Jacket

My Amelia Bomber is made in a beautiful French cotton jacquard. A bomber gives you a completely different silhouette from the workwear-style jackets in this section and shows just how much the combination of pattern and fabric can change the overall feel of a handmade jacket.

In the Folds Ormond Jacket

I've made two Ormond Jackets, both in Sevenberry cotton twill with Liberty details including a contrasting undercollar.

My ecru version in particular is one I've worn loads.The Ormond is another good option if you're looking for a relatively straightforward jacket sewing project. Stable fabrics such as cotton twill are also lovely to work with, especially if you're building your confidence with outerwear.

Chalk & Notch Joy Jacket

My Joy Jacket is made in Tencel twill and lined in a patterned viscose. I cropped the pattern to give mine a shorter, sportier look and it has become another really well-worn jacket in my wardrobe.

This is a good example of how you don't always have to make a pattern exactly as intended. Changing the length, fabric or little internal details can make a jacket much more suited to your own style and wardrobe.

At the other end of my handmade outerwear wardrobe are my wool coats. These projects generally involve a bit more fabric, interfacing, pressing and construction time, but I find them incredibly satisfying to sew. A well-made wool coat can stay in your wardrobe for years and years.

Grainline Studio Yates Coat

My Yates is made in a beautiful mint-coloured 100% British wool. It's fully lined and I added Liberty fabric as a trim between the facing and lining. Despite looking like quite a substantial coat project, I actually think the Yates is a really good introduction to sewing with wool coating. If you've made some simpler jackets and fancy moving on to a proper wool coat, this is one I'd consider. It's also one of my most-worn handmade coats.

Closet Core Clare Coat

I used another 100% British wool for my Clare Coat and again added Liberty trim between the facing and lining. This one also has bound buttonholes, which are one of those lovely tailoring details that take a little more time but look so special on a handmade coat.

Grainline Studio Cascade Duffle Coat

My Cascade Duffle Coat has been in my wardrobe for years and is still one of my most-worn coats. I made it in a wool and cashmere blend and lined it with Liberty Tana Lawn. It's a bigger project simply because there are more pieces and stages involved, but that's something I think is really important to remember about coat making: a longer project doesn't necessarily mean every individual step is difficult. You just work through it one stage at a time and suddenly you've made an amazing coat that you could be wearing for years!

Sew Over It Cocoon Coat

This is definitely one of the fanciest fabric combinations in my coat collection!I made my Cocoon Coat in a fluffy mohair-blend coating and lined it with Liberty silk. A gorgeous lining can make such a difference to a coat, particularly when you get those little flashes of it as you take the coat on and off.

Colette Patterns Anise Jacket

This is the oldest garment in the whole round-up and a particularly special one for me because I made it back in 2012 while filming The Great British Sewing Bee! It's quite amazing to look back at something I made 14 years ago and think about just how many coats and jackets I've sewn since.

Named Patterns cropped jacket

This is another old make and the pattern has since been discontinued. In fact, it's been so long that I can't even remember the name of it! I still wanted to include it because this isn't just a round-up of patterns currently available to buy. It's a look back through my actual handmade wardrobe and how my coat and jacket sewing has evolved over the years.

The final group contains some of my most practical and most-worn jackets. When I say water-resistant, I don't mean technical outerwear for climbing mountains! These are everyday jackets made from waxed cotton, coated fabrics or water-resistant fabrics that give you some extra protection from our changeable British weather.

Papercut Patterns Waver Jacket

My Waver is made from waxed cotton canvas and lined in Liberty Tana Lawn. I also self-drafted a facing for the hood, which is another example of adapting a pattern to get the finish I wanted. Despite being quite a substantial-looking jacket, I found the Waver relatively straightforward to sew.

Named Patterns Isla Trench Coat

For my Isla Trench Coat I went for the classic combination of a tan water-resistant cotton canvas and a traditional trench-coat style. This is another older pattern and a great example of choosing a fabric that really suits both the design of the garment and what you want the finished coat to do.

Closet Core Kelly Anorak in waxed cotton

My second Kelly feels like a completely different jacket from my cotton-twill version.This one is made from waxed cotton canvas and I flat-lined the body and hood with quilted Thinsulate to add warmth. It's become one of my most-worn jackets. That's one of the things I love about returning to a pattern you've made before. Changing the outer fabric, lining and internal construction can create a garment that serves a completely different purpose. Read more about it in my blog post in this link!

Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket

My Tamarack uses the hood expansion and is made from a pre-quilted water-resistant fabric. For extra warmth I lined it in teddy fleece, then finished the edges and seams with binding, which I hand stitched in place. It was a labour of love, but it has been SO worth it because this is another jacket that I've worn loads. The Tamarack itself is a relatively approachable jacket pattern too, particularly if you use a pre-quilted fabric rather than quilting all the fabric yourself. Find out more detail about this make in this blog post linked here.

Helen's Closet Wildwood Jacket

These are the newest jackets in this whole collection and I've already made two! I've adapted the Wildwood by adding a contrasting teddy-fleece panel across the shoulders to create a front and back yoke, as well as lining the hood. My navy version is longer and comes to around mid-thigh, while the other finishes around hip length.

Helen's Closet patterns have really good instructions, so I think the Wildwood is a great option if you're relatively new to this type of sewing. You certainly don't need to make all the adaptations I've added to mine!

I think coats and jackets can look much more intimidating than they actually are.

Yes, they generally take longer to sew than a simple top or dress. You might have more pattern pieces and stages to work through, and depending on the style there could be linings, interfacing, pockets, collars and lots of pressing involved. But that doesn't mean every individual step is difficult.

If you take your time and work through the construction one stage at a time, you can end up with an incredibly professional-looking garment. And unlike something you might only wear occasionally, a really useful jacket can be worn day after day and stay in your wardrobe for years. That's one of the reasons I find sewing outerwear so satisfying.

If you're making your first jacket, I'd think about both the pattern and the fabric.

From the patterns I've made, the Friday Pattern Company Ilford and In the Folds Ormond are two of the more straightforward options.

The Helen's Closet Wildwood can also be very approachable, particularly because Helen's Closet instructions are so thorough. You don't need to add all the adaptations I've made to mine!

The Grainline Tamarack and Papercut Waver are other patterns I've found relatively straightforward.

If you've already made a few jackets and want to try sewing a proper wool coat, I'd suggest looking at the Grainline Yates.

Most importantly, don't assume that an unlined jacket will automatically be quicker or easier. If all the internal seams are exposed and you want to finish them beautifully with bound seams, for example, that can actually take more time than inserting a lining and bagging it out.

Before choosing your fabric, think about when you actually want to wear the finished jacket and what you want to wear underneath it.

For a casual transitional jacket, cotton twill and denim are brilliant options. They're stable to cut and sew, come in lots of weights and colours, and create really wearable everyday jackets.

For a warmer winter coat, look at wool and wool-blend coating fabrics. The exact weight and drape will affect the finished silhouette, so always think about the style of your pattern as well as how warm you want the coat to be.

Waxed cottons, coated fabrics and water-resistant fabrics are fantastic for practical everyday outerwear.

And don't forget about layering. If you want to wear your coat over thick jumpers in winter, you need enough room in the finished garment to do that comfortably.

After making all of these over the years, there are a few things that make coat and jacket sewing much easier:

• Make sure your scissors are nice and sharp, particularly when you're cutting thicker fabrics.
• Sewing clips can be much easier than pins when you're working with bulky layers.
• Start with a fresh, sharp machine needle that's appropriate for your fabric.
• Take your time. A coat doesn't have to be finished in one sewing session!
• Think carefully about your lining. I love using beautiful patterned woven fabrics such as Liberty Tana Lawn in the body, but I often use a traditional slippery lining in the sleeves. It makes it SO much easier to slide your arms in and out, particularly when you're wearing a jumper underneath.
• Don't dismiss a pattern because it looks complicated. Look at the individual techniques involved and tackle them one at a time.
• And remember that unlined doesn't necessarily mean easier!

Looking back through all of these makes has reminded me just how much I love sewing outerwear.

Yes, coats and jackets usually require more time and effort, but I think that's part of what makes them so satisfying. You can add beautiful linings, contrast fabrics and special little details, adapt patterns to suit your wardrobe and really take your time over the construction.

And then you get to wear them!

Some of the coats and jackets in this round-up have been in my wardrobe for well over a decade, and quite a few are still amongst my most-worn handmade garments.

So if you've been putting off making your first jacket because it feels a bit daunting, I'd really encourage you to give it a go. Take it one step at a time and you might just discover that you love sewing coats and jackets as much as I do!