How to Grade Between Sizes on the Caiplie Jacket Sewing Pattern

Many of us find that when we take our body measurements, they fall across a few different sewing pattern sizes.

This is completely normal and nothing to worry about, but it can make choosing which size to sew a little confusing. This is where grading between sizes, sometimes called blending between pattern sizes, comes in.

Essentially, you're combining two or more sizes on your sewing pattern to create a fit that works better for your own measurements. And that's one of the wonderful things about sewing your own clothes! You can make something that fits your body exactly how you want it to.

The basic principle of grading between sizes is to draw a smooth line connecting the different sizes you need.

The key here is to keep those lines nice and smooth, following the natural curves of the body. We don't want any sudden sharp angles when blending between sizes.

For a pattern like the Caiplie Jacket, we also need to think about how the different pattern pieces join together, particularly around those lovely hidden pockets and princess seams.

I'll show you exactly how to approach these as we go through the tutorial.

Before we start adjusting any pattern pieces, we need to work out which sizes to blend between.

I talk more about choosing your size for the Caiplie Jacket in the Top Tips video that accompanies the pattern, but I'd recommend starting with your high bust measurement.

This is going to help you get a really good fit around the top of your jacket, particularly across your shoulders.

You might find that your full bust measurement falls into a different size from your high bust. However, because the Caiplie is designed to be oversized and has a generous amount of ease, you'll probably find that you don't need to make a bust adjustment.

I'd recommend using your high bust measurement to choose your bust size too, unless there's more than a 4 inch difference between your high bust and full bust measurements.

What about your waist measurement?

You don't need to worry too much about grading at the waist for this pattern. Take a look at the finished garment measurements and you'll see there's plenty of ease through this area.

You can always hold a tape measure around yourself at the finished waist measurement to double check you've got enough room. Remember, you're likely to be wearing your Caiplie Jacket over a jumper too!

The two key measurements to focus on are your high bust and hip.

If these fall into different pattern sizes, then grading between them is probably going to be a good idea.

Generally, grading across three or four sizes should be manageable, but I'd always recommend making a toile to check the fit before cutting into your final fabric.

Your toile can be really simple. There's no need to include all the pockets or lining pieces at this stage. We're just checking that the overall shape and fit are right.

Before getting started, gather together a few things:

• Your printed Caiplie Jacket sewing pattern. Make sure you've identified the sizes you need to blend between.
• Highlighters or coloured pencils. I'm using my Patterntrace Highlighter Pencils, which are brilliant for making the different size lines easier to see.
• A French curve or pattern master. This is helpful for drawing smooth curves between sizes, but you can absolutely do it freehand too.

If you're using a French curve or pattern master, you might find that the curve isn't quite the exact shape you need. That's fine! Just keep repositioning it as you draw your new line. The main thing is to keep everything smooth.

For this example, I'm going to show you how to grade from a size 8 at the bust down to a size 4 at the hip.

I've printed just these two sizes and the middle size 6 to make the different lines easier to see. (The size 8 is the long dashed line and the size 4 is the solid line.)

Of course, you might be grading between completely different sizes, but don't worry about the numbers. The process is exactly the same.

You might also be grading in the opposite direction, for example from a smaller bust size to a larger hip size. Again, the principle is the same. Your lines will just be moving in the opposite direction.

Once you've graded the main bodice, facing and lining pieces, there are quite a few pieces that you can simply cut in your chosen bust or hip size.

Here's a handy reference to help you keep track.

3 - Front hem band (cut your hip size)
4 - Back hem band (cut your hip size)
5 - Sleeve (cut bust size)
6 - Cuff (cut bust size)
7 - Collar (cut bust size)
8 - Welt outer
9 - Welt facing
10 - Deep pocket lining
11 - Shallow pocket lining
12 - Side seam pocket lining (cut hip size)
13 - Hanging loop
15 - Back facing (cut bust size)
20 - Bottom left lining (cut hip size)

For the smaller pocket and welt pieces, follow the relevant size markings and construction details in your pattern instructions.

I hope this has given you the confidence to have a go at grading between sizes! Remember, one of the best things about sewing your own clothes is being able to adjust a pattern to get the fit just right for you.

If you're ready to get started, I've linked the Caiplie Jacket sewing pattern below, along with the handy sewing tools I've used in this tutorial to help you along the way.

Simply tap the products below to shop!

I hope this blog post has given you the confidence to grade between sizes and make a jacket you'll love wearing!

And as always, if you need a little extra help along the way, please do get in touch with the team. We're always happy to help with your sewing questions!

Happy sewing!