Part 2
How to use cuffing for a neckband
This is part 2 of my cuffing top tips. In this post I’ll show you how to use cuffing for a neckband using cuffing and tubular ribbing.
As the cuffing typically comes in fairly wide (approx 7cm) it’s really too wide to use at this width as a neckband so there are two options.
Method 1 Trim the cuffing down to the desired width
For this method you could use your pattern piece as a guide for trimming the cuffing to the correct width. The width of the pattern piece will be double the width of the finished neckband plus seam allowance. So you can fold the neckband pattern piece in half and then line this up with the finished edge of the cuffing and trim it down.
You’ll then join it into the round either with an overlocker or the sewing machine. I suggest to ensure that the seam allowance sits flat and stays within the top finished edge of the band that you top stitch it down.
Here I have stitched it with a regular sewing machine, pressed the seam allowances open and top stitched them down, angling the seam allowance slightly so that it doesn't show from the outside/right side of the fabric.
Now it's time to insert it into your garment. So your shoulder seams will be sewn together and you need to have the centre front and back of the garment marked with a notch or pin.
To make it easier to fit the neckband in evenly, find find the quarter points of the neckline, so mid way between the centre front and back. Depending on how low the neckline this is it will be somewhere on the front bodice - note that it is NOT the shoulder seam allowance.
Using the seam on the neckband as a starting point (which will be positioned at the centre back) mark quarter points on the neckband as well. Handle it lightly here, try not to pull or stretch on it at this stage.
Match the quarter points on the neckband and neckline and pin together.
You'll then have to gently stretch the neckband (not the main garment) to make it fit and sit flat against the neckline of the bodice. This is normal. Place the pins at 90 degrees to the raw edge to make the pinning more accurate.
Sew the neckband on with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. Follow the seam allowance stated by the instructions you are following. In the example below (which is the Megan Neilsen Jarrah sweatshirt) the seam allowance was 1.5cm/5/8" so I then trimmed it down afterwards.
If you have an overlocker you could finish off the seam allowances at this point. This step is optional as the fabric and cuffing won't fray anyway.
Press everything flat and then top stitch, using a stretch stitch, around the neckline. Stitch on the main fabric and through the seam allowances underneath.
Method 2 - Fold the cuffing in half and trim down
You could use the cuffing in the same way you would use tubular ribbing fabric where you cut out the full width of your pattern piece.
You may still have to trim down the cuffing here.
Then join it in the round and fold in half with the wrong sides facing.
Next fold and press the loop you have made in half with the wrong sides facing and mark the quarter points using the seam as a starting point.
Now it's time to insert it into your garment. So your shoulder seams will be sewn together and you need to have the centre front and back of the garment marked with a notch or pin.
To make it easier to fit the neckband in evenly, find find the quarter points of the neckline, so mid way between the centre front and back. Depending on how low the neckline this is it will be somewhere on the front bodice - note that it is NOT the shoulder seam allowance.
Using the seam on the neckband as a starting point (which will be positioned at the centre back) mark quarter points on the neckband as well. Handle it lightly here, try not to pull or stretch on it at this stage.
Match the quarter points on the neckband and neckline and pin together.
You'll then have to gently stretch the neckband (not the main garment) to make it fit and sit flat against the neckline of the bodice. This is normal. Place the pins at 90 degrees to the raw edge to make the pinning more accurate.
Sew the neckband on with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. Follow the seam allowance stated by the instructions you are following. In the example below (which is the Megan Neilsen Jarrah sweatshirt) the seam allowance was 1.5cm/5/8" so I then trimmed it down afterwards.
If you have an overlocker you could finish off the seam allowances at this point. This step is optional as the fabric and cuffing won't fray anyway.
Press everything flat and then top stitch, using a stretch stitch, around the neckline. Stitch on the main fabric and through the seam allowances underneath.
As you can see in my sample here, I folded the cuffing that had stripes woven through it to customise the stripe that was visible on the neckline. I choose to have the gold stripe on show, while the red/coral stripe is on the inside.
