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How to line sheer fabrics


Lining fabrics that are sheer and see-through with the 'make two' lining method

Do you love the light weight and summery sheer fabrics but feel daunted by the thought of having to line them? Maybe it seems too complicated? Or you just don’t know what type of fabric to use as a lining? Or maybe you think you need a special pattern that is designed to be lined? 

In this part 1 of 2 blog posts on lining dressmaking projects I’m here to demystify all of this for you and help you to see how simple and easy it can be to line a delicate fabric, no matter what your skill level is.

This post specifically covers lining sheer fabrics suitable for tops, dresses and skirts with the 'Make Two' method of lining.

Hear me chat about it in my latest Youtube video linked below and read on for step by step instructions and links to fabric and pattern suggestions!

 

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How to line sheer fabrics

Learn how to work with these gorgeous fabrics to create beautiful garments in my Youtube video tutorial!

Watch now

Should I line a garment or not?

Let's address this question first. Just because a fabric is sheer or a bit see through does not mean you need to line it. Maybe you are making a beach or pool cover up and will be wearing a swim suit underneath. Maybe you want to layer the garment over a vest top or a slip dress and therefore don’t need any additional lining. Or maybe neither of those situations are in your vision and you just feel the need for more coverage from your garment and want to line it.

What fabric should I use for lining?

In the context of delicate cotton embroidered fabric or light weight sheer fabrics for summer tops and dresses my top choices would be a plain cotton voile or a plain flat weave woven viscose. It’s best to try and match your lining as close as possible to the main fabric. So for cotton fabric, or linen fabrics that hold there shape a bit more, the cotton voile is better. For viscose fabrics or linen viscose fabrics where the viscose content is much higher than the linen content and the fabric is very drapey and floppy, the plain flat weave woven viscose is best.

F4619
Black Cotton Voile Fabric
£9.40 /m

F4621
Cream Cotton Voile Fabric
£9.40 /m

Sold Out
F5980
White Cotton Voile Fabric
£9.40 /m

Sold Out

F2576
Cream Viscose Fabric
£8.50 /m

F2574
Black Viscose Fabric
£8.50 /m

F5980
White Viscose Fabric
£8.50 /m

Do I need a special sewing pattern that has been designed to be lined or can I adapt my pattern? 

The short answer is no, you do not need a special pattern to be able to line a garment. In this post I am going to explain two ways you can line a garment. One method, which I’ll call the ‘Make Two Method’,  is to essentially make two versions of the garment, one in lining and in the main fabric and then attach them together at the neckline, or waistband if it's a skirt. 

The other method, which I’ll call ‘Flat Lining Method’ is to cut the lining and main fabric out and then before constructing the garment, attach the two fabrics together by basting them in the seam allowance and then treating it as one fabric while constructing the garment as normal. The details of this are covered in the Part 2 blog linked below.

The ‘Make Two Method’ of lining a garment

In this method of lining a garment you construct two garments, one out of the main fabric and one out of the lining fabric and then attach them together, typically at the neckline.

I am using the Matchy Matchy Peplum Split Tank Pattern and one of our new Spring/Summer fabrics that is very light weight and a bit sheer. If you were using this partocular fabric and not lining it I think you would want to layer it over a vest or tank top for more coverage.

It’s important that the unfinished neckline edge of the garments are stabilised in some way, either with stay-stitching sewn using the machine, or forming tape interfacing ironed onto the back of the fabric. This stops the necklines from stretching out.

In this example I've used the Prym Forming tape interfacing, which is so useful on light weight fabrics where stay stitching on the machine can sometimes distort and stretch the fabric.

MM peplumsplittank
Matchy Matchy Peplum Split Tank Sewing Pattern PDF
from £12.00

F2576
Cream Viscose Fabric
£8.50 /m

Cobalt Collage Viscose Blend Fabric
£9.90 /m

968220
Prym Forming Tape Interfacing 12mm
£7.40

What about the hem?

In the 'Make Two' version of lining a garment the lining layer and outer layer get hemmed seperatly. You can either do this at the very end or before you join the two layers together.

It's worth making the lining a little bit shorter than the outer layer so there is no risk it will visible.

In this example I have sewn a narrow hem on the outer but turning it 0.5cm twice and on the lining by turning it 1cm then 1.5cm. This gives a 1.5cm different between the two layers. Depending on the garment and style you may have to actually cut down the lining layer to get a shorter hem length.

If your garment has sleeves, also hem them separately in the same way.

Attaching the outer and lining at the neckline

When it comes to attaching the two garments at the neckline, you might be using bias binding, in which case simply baste the lining and main fabric garment together at the neckline edge with the wrong sides facing and then sew the binding on, treating them as one later of fabric.

In this example I have sewn them together, a bit like you would sew a facing on, but instead of a facing its a whole other garment you are sewing on.

Sew the necklines together right sides facing

Turn either the outer or lining layer inside out and side it into the other layer so that right sides are facing. Match up the raw neckline edges and sew together.

If you are working with a pattern that originally had a facing take note of the seam allowance included at the neck - it might be as much as 1.5cm. If your pattern had bias biding around the neck orginally then the seam allowance is likely to be smaller - just check so that the opening of the neckline is correct or you might not be able to get it on over your head.

Grade and clip seam allowances

Grade the seam allowances, making the lining layer narrower and the clip into it, close but not touching the stitch line.

Under-stitch the neckline

To help the lining stay sitting flat inside the garment, you need to understitch on the lining fabric, close to the seam line and ensure that all the seam allowances underneath are also caught in the line of sewing.

Press the lining to the inside

Once that is sewn, tuck the lining inside the outer layer (the wrong sides will now be facing) and press the neckline edge. The under-stitching will help the lining to roll to the inside and give a really neat finish .

Finish off the arm hole openings

If your garment has a sleeve then it's likely you will be finished at this stage!

If your garment has a bias binding finish then you can sew that on now, treating the two layers of lining and outer fabric as one.

Baste the two layers together

Within the seam allowance, baste the two layers together. It's likely that your lining will stick out a litter further than the main fabric because of the way the neckline has been finished.

Sew the Bias binding on

Sew the bias binding on, either folding it to the inside of the garment or leave it visible - depending on your pattern and preference.

Give everything a good press

As with all sewing things, it will look better after a good press with the iron! So make sure it's topped up with steam and give it all a good press to finish it off!

Yay! You are finished!

Admire your lovely lined top! I hope you have found this tutorial useful and can see how simple, albeit more time consuming, to add a lining to a garment made from sheer fabric!

Don't forget to check out Part two of this mini lining series - it's all about the 'Flat Lining' method, which works prefectly for embroidered or eyelet style fabric!

Lauren