Summer Wardrobe Series - one pattern four ways

The True Bias Ogden Cami
Week One

Blog / 19 June 2018

Happy June everyone! I hope you are all having a lovely month so far!? I’m really excited to share week one of this years summer capsule wardrobe series today!

I loved putting it together last year for you and so many people seemed to enjoy it too – if you missed last years I’ve linked to a few of the posts at the bottom of the page.

This year is themed around one key pattern – the Truebias Ogden Cami – and I plan on showing you how versatile it can be and how to mix and match it with other patterns for different looks – so the theme is one pattern four ways!

You can hear my chat all about it in my latest Youtube video and below is all the information, details and links  – a bit like notes from the video that you can easily refer back to as needed.

Design and style variations

The ogden is a simple top that looks great on its own or as a layering piece.

The soft V neck at the centre front and lower v-neck at the centre back with delicate spaghetti straps is really flattering. 

The neckline and armholes are finished with a partial lining that is attached like a facing, which gives a beautiful high-end finish.

The silhouette is a loose gentle a-line shape that creates a lovely swish in the garment, especially when it’s made in a fluid, drapey fabric.

Fabric choices and notions needed

The pattern recommends lightweight woven fabrics such as crepe, rayon challis, voile and lightweight linen.

For my two versions I’ve chosen this gorgeous Emerald forest viscose crepe fabric and the midnight colour way from the Atelier Brunette range of viscose crepes. Both fabrics are lovely and light weight so ideal for this style of garment.

Fabric buying tip - Due to its loose style is best to have something that will move and float on its own. If you’re out shopping and aren’t sure what to buy, then the best thing to do it to hold a fabric up and let some of it hang loose from the bolt or roll. Kind of swish it around to check if it moves around easily.  Scrunch it up in your hand and see if it easily falls and drops back into place.

The only other thing you 100% need to make this project is thread but I’m going to show you how to use a few other tools and notions that will help you get a lovely finish.

Included with our fabric and notions kit for this project is a pack of Prym forming tape interfacing. This useful stuff easily replaces the stay-stitching step, which can be quite tricky on a very fine fabric. You can see it in action in my Youtube video or check out the steps photographed below.

As the Ogden pattern is currently out of print, included with your fabric and notions pack is an exclusive discount code for 20% off the pdf (it’s a really quick 15 page print) and printed pattern direct from the True Bias website. We will also include a discount code to buy the printed pattern from us when they come back into stock - we are expecting this should be by the end of June/beginning of July. 

Sizing and construction tips

In terms of sizing, this pattern offers US size 0-18 (Bust 32” – 44.5”). I choose to make a size 4, which matches my body measurements and I’m usually a UK size 8/10 depending on the shop.

As you can see the waist and hips and quite loose and its more fitted over the top of the bust. As the fabric hangs really well, the fitting over the bust almost happens on its own.

How to use forming tape interfacing

Some of you may have seen me use this awesome stuff before! It is iron-on, woven interfacing that is cut on the bias. Running along the length of it is a sort of chain stitch that doesn’t have any give in it. This means it can replace the step of the instructions that advises to stay stitch the neckline of the front and back bodice and lining pieces.

As the interfacing is cut on the bias, it means it can very easily mould around the curves of a neck line and it’s really easy to attach to the fabric with the iron. Have the iron on a cool-medium setting and make sure the shiny side is facing the wrong side of the fabric and press it on. Check the glue has melted and iron again if it’s coming away at all.

Extra top tip for using it with the ogden – The fabrics that I have used for my versions are very slippery and I give lots of tips on cutting out in my Youtbe video, but in terms of applying the forming tape interfacing - before you iron it on, lay your fabric out on the ironing board and use your pattern piece to make sure the fabric remains in the same shape and at this stage it’s very easy for it to shift out of alignment.

Once the fabric is sitting correctly, iron the forming tape interfacing on top very carefully, making sure you keep the fabric in the same position

How to use a loop turner

The delicate spaghetti straps give a really elegant touch to the garment and are easily turned through with a loop turner. This nifty tool has a little hook with a latch that grips onto the fabric and helps you turn it through on itself.

Once you have sewn the straps with the right sides together, trim the seam allowance to about 3/4mm. Feed the loop turner through the little tube of fabric that you have just made until it pokes out the top end.

Now use the little latch bit underneath the hook to pierce the fabric and gently pull it down so that a small section of fabric is now caught in the hook. If you fabric is fraying a lot you can iron a small patch of interfacing onto the edge of the fabric to make it more stable.

Now gently pull on the loop turner while using your other hand to gently encourage the fabric to turn back on itself. Once it gets started it should easily pull through.

Once the strap is turned inside out, carefully press it flat with the same allowance to one side.

How to do a narrow hem

A nice narrow hem on a fabric like this will give a lovely finish. On my Emerald forest version I pressed the hem twice and machine stitched close to the bottom and for my midnight version I hand stitched a rolled hem.

To sew a machine narrow hem - use the machine to sew a line of stitching 5mm from the raw edge  - this will act as a pressing guide. Use this line of stitching to press the hem towards the wrong side of the fabric, making sure the line of stay stitching can be seen (see picture below).

Fold the edge over again by the same amount so that the raw edges are hidden and press in place. 

Next, top stitch it down using the machine with the right side of the fabric facing up. This will mean if there are slight inconsistencies in how you have pressed it, the line of stitching will still look even from the front of the garment.

To sew a hand-sewn rolled hem This method is a bit trickier and time consuming but it does look very slick and professional. I usually lay the garment over my lap with the wrong side facing up. I’m right handed, so I’ll use my left hand to roll the bottom edge of the garment over so that the raw edges are hidden and then use a catch stitch to secure it in place.

I’ve used a contrasting thread so its easier for you to see. Take a small stitch in the section that is rolled, and then catch just a few fibres of the fabric underneath. 

Then go back and take a slightly bigger stitch again in the rolled part of the fabric. From the front of the garment you should only see very small stitches where you catch just a few fibres. In a matching thread colour these would barely be visible

From the front of the garment the stitches should be virtually invisible and may appear almost like subtle dimples in the fabric. 

Style options

The Ogden look great as a stand alone separate paired with some jeans – the Closet Case Patterns Giners are a great choice – that’s what I’m wearing mine with. I think as the silhouette is loose over the waist and hips, I think it works best to give your hips a bit more shape underneath.

You can accessorize it with a statement necklace…

Or layer it up under a cardigan for when it’s a bit cooler.

I hope you enjoyed week one and found all the extra tips helpful! I'll be back next week with part two!