Happy New Year Everyone! Wow 2015! I still can't believe another year has flown past.
This first week in January always feels like the serious back to business week for me. Even though the shop was open last week, there was still that holiday feeling in the air and I still didn't feel guilty about eating lots of chocolates and the last of the mince pies in the evening. This week the decorations are down, I've had a bit of a tidy up and the to do list needs action now, not more pondering.
So without further a-do, I bring you the first Pattern Club of 2015, this time courtesy of Lucy. You can see our previous reviews here.
If you fancy more of a challenge in this year, this project could be right up your street!
She has made the Named Patterns Yona Wrap Coat, so its over to her for the full low-down!
- Yona Wrap Coat
- Pattern Company: Named (available to buy as a paper pattern here)
- Retail Price: £14.50
- Size range offered : UK 4 – 18
- Raglan cut, Mid-thigh length, V-neckline with peaked notch lapel, Lined patch pockets at front, Belt closure (optional button closure included)
How would you describe the style of the garment?
Relaxed, boyfriend fit, oversized and casual coat
What type of figure or body shape is it suitable for?
Probably a slender build as it’s not got a lot of shape and could look bulky on a larger bust or figure.
What type of fabrics are suitable?
Medium to heavy weight wool or wool blends.
What fabric did you choose and why?
I chose this bright green wool blend (80% wool 20% Polyester Melton Wool) as I wanted it to be a warm statement colour jacket. Plus the style of the coat meant that it could take a bold colour choice. Fabric available in this link. It also comes in a dark blue, teal, red and black. All colours in this link.
How easy was it to trace the pattern?
The pattern can be quite tricky to trace off as all of the sizes and pattern pieces overlap each other. Also, the seam allowance is now included on the patterns, but this is drawn on also, so you have to watch the extra lines which makes it a little more confusing.
There are also a lot of pattern pieces to take into account, which is expected with a jacket, but it is something to bear in mind.
NOTE: The pdf version of the pattern was used to trace off.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Did the difficulty level on the pattern match what you think it should be?
The difficulty rating was advanced and I would say this is fairly true. Although the initial shell itself and the lining are quick and easy to assemble, the pattern assumes the sewer has knowledge of certain terms and construction. The instructions I found to be quite basic with the diagrams being not very clear, just a few unlabelled sketches. The pattern does actually inform you that their instructions aren’t necessarily what you should follow – that you should make up the pattern the way you want instead, depending on your sewing skills and personal taste. (I get what they are saying, but not sure that it is helpful advice!) It definitely isn’t one for beginners, but confident sewers should be fine as long as they have a few more complex patterns under their belt.
Were the illustrations/pictures easy to interpret?
I would say up to a point, yes. However they could do with some kind of labelling or at least a key as some pictures you really have no idea what they are trying to convey (The sleeve lining!!)
What challenges or difficulties did you find when putting it together?
Initially this coat was a dream to sew. The shapes of the pattern were basic and fit together easily, I got the outside shell and the lining all constructed within a day. I would just say be aware of the fact you will be using thicker fabric so you may need to adjust your sewing machine if possible to accommodate this, and remember to grade your finished seams to reduce bulk (Another thing the pattern assumes you already know as it isn’t mentioned).
I found the instructions for the sleeves confusing as the diagram didn’t make sense and I couldn’t figure out what they were trying to say, but I got there in the end.
Does the difficulty level on the pattern represent how difficult it was to make up?
Yes it does, as far as coats go I think this is one of the easier ones to make up, but it is fiddly in parts.
What tips would you recommend to make construction easier?
Make sure to mark all of your pattern pieces and to repeat this on the fabric. As there are many it will make construction quicker.
Remember to grade your seams especially around the collar area – there is a lot of fabric squeezed in there.
How did you find the fit? Was it true to size?
I decided to go a size up. I usually wear a 10 in coats, but wanted to have room for jumpers so cut a 12. Now it is made it does feel very snug and small on me even without a jumper on so next time I will make a 14. I downloaded the PDF pattern and had trouble getting it to print to actual size no matter how much I tried, so did have to settle for a slightly smaller size 12. This may not be a problem with the paper pattern.
I would definitely recommend making a toile if possible. I didn’t have time this time around, but it will give you a better idea of fit.
Also, there were no finished measurements on the pattern, they indicate that they are on the website, but I couldn’t find them.
The patterns are designed for the height 5’8” and I am 5’4”. The coat is meant to sit mid thigh, but sits more on the hip even on me.
I am a bit disappointed that it just isn’t as over coat-y and loose as I had dreamed up. I know though for next time to make it bigger and it will be fine.
What adjustments did you make?
I didn’t make any adjustments this time around, but I would definitely make the coat a good 40cm longer next time.
Is there anything you would change if making it again?
I would definitely make it 2 sizes bigger and lengthen it and also lengthen the front facing pattern pieces to give a neater finish to the bottom of the coat.
What advice would you give to customers when choosing a size?
I would definitely advise going at least one size up if not two.
How long did it take to make?
A couple of solid days
How much fabric did you use? Did this match up with what was recommended on the pattern?
I used 2.1m of outer fabric using a 60” wide wool blend. The pattern suggested 2.2 and for the lining it suggested 1.4 m of which I used 1.4m.
I like it to look at but wish it was just a bit bigger.
Thanks Lucy! Our next meeting is coming up soon and we'll have another batch of lovely patterns to give you the juice on! Exciting!